MZ Skorpion Notes Mostly collected by morgan (firstname.lastname@example.org) from the MZOG mailing list
Mostly c/o Chris H., Roland @ Spare Parts Co. and Galen @ Bikeworx:
Oil Drain 22 Oil Pipe Screws 9 Oil Filter Drain 7.2 Oil Filter Cover Screws 7.2 Oil Filter Vent Screw 3.6 Coarse Oil Filter 22 (Do not open without new crush washers on hand! Copper, 16mm ID, 20mm OD) Crankcase cover bolts 7.6
Front Axle 50 Pinch Bolts 10 Rear Axle 80 Countershaft Sprocket 80
Steering Head Nut 60 Shock Bolts 30
Upper Fork Pinch Bolts 22 Lower FPB 17
Ft lb to NM multiply by 1.356 NM to Ft lb multiply by .738
Intake Valves .004-.006" .10-.15mm Exhaust Valves .006-.008" .15-.20mm.
Fork Oil Qty 350 ml/side
kgs47mz on ebay can supply one for gremeca m/c
Skorpion 41x53x10.5mm Peakmoto.com $12.90 USD delivered.
c/o Bill Jurgenson: EBC makes a replacement: http://www.cyclebrakes.com/html/ebc_brake_rotors.html http://www.ebcbrakes.com/rotorsroad.html
download the catalog as pdf,
go to page 38 to find their replacement rotor for the Skorpion front.
henrib: Skorp front rotor is an EBC MD619RS 316mm I have heard that you can bolt on an R6 310 mm rotor in a pinch.
Motor Parts Compatibility
Yamaha uses on part for several bikes. The 660 motor is a mix of xt600e, 660 raptor and other parts that are unique to that motor.
c/o Bill Jurgenson: nope, the motor ist from the xtz which is much older than the 660 raptor; it would be proper to say that the raptor uses the xtz motor. Whatever, all the motor parts are Yamaha parts or parts Yamaha put there such as the totally unnecessary fuel pump. There are no special bearings or odd-ball seals anywhere on the Skorpion, so bearings and seals can be had from any industrial supplier. I never order them from a bike dealer - that is just more expensive. Swingarm and linkage is original Yamaha. Yamaha FZR 600 (3HE) strut fits exactly but needs a stronger spring, one from a FZR 100o is just right. These things can usually be had cheaply from eBay. The lower linkage from that FZR 600 (3HE) also fits exactly because that where MZ got it and the swingarm, too. So, here, too, no need to look for a needle in a haystack or unqualified MZ dealer.
All brake parts can and should be replaced with Brembo pumps and calipers. The only problem is the front rotor which is used only on a very few other bikes - a the moment I can think only of the Honda RS125. Of course there are aftermarket rotors.
Leaves only the electric stuff which is basically CEV except for the Denso parts directly connected to the motor. The round headlight of the Tour is from Yamaha and is virtually unbreakable as long as you don't fall down too often. Even then, only the ring or casing gets damaged; the lens and reflector are impervious and if it does break, the Diversion has the exact same headlight.. The stupid bull's eye thing in the Sport can be replaced with the same sized and shaped headlight from a Yamaha xt600 (among others) with it H4 bulb - and it is both lighter and impervious to vibrations. The Denso CDI is used in the xtz and that from the Yamaha SZR works just as well as does that of the the TDM:
TDM 3VD-82305-00 131800 5550 12V TNDF14 G blue label
SZR 4MY-82305-00 131800 6150 12V TDMF19 J orange label
Skorpion and xtz 3YF-82305-00 131800 5040 12V TNDF13 F blue label
Only the fork seals might prove to be a problem, but then I just changed mine for the first time last year - after 12 years and much use. Ask me to send them if you seriously can't find then. I usually have them or can get them at short notice. Guess that leaves really only the plastic fairing parts and the rubber protector on the swingarm as a real OEM MZ part not outsourced at Yamaha or one of its dependencies like Paioli or Brembo. Easy enuf to make something yourself from nylon to go there. Don't even bother to try and get fairing parts 'cause there are virtually no more to be had new. For the Sport in the US, you can try to get the Beasley fiberglass racing fairing and seat cowl when the originals disintegrate. Over here in Europe at MLB. And of course you can try eBay. or ask here and in other fora: the german and dutch/belgian fora where you can write english if you want: german: http://f3.webmart.de/f.cfm?id=781795& belgian/dutch: http://forum.monoconnection.nl/index.php
and the basically US based: http://www.mzriders.com/mz/
Almost no need for aMZ dealer; any competent Yamaha dealer will and must do. I order all those specific OEM parts I need from my Yamaha dealer, too. It is quite another question if one needs a competent workshop... These are few and far between, regardless of make. If you find one, regards less of franchise, be nice to him, take your business there, recommend him to others. And he won't send you away just because you didn't buy your bike (he doesn't sell anyway) in his shop. Anybody who does is best avoided entirely.
c/o Emilino A: Yes, the mz is a xtz motor The raptor uses the exact same cylinder and head (same part#s)except for the coolant oulet but that unbolts. But the cases are completely different. The xtz/mz uses the same clutch cover gasket as the xt600e, the crank is almost the same as the xtz, There are some other bits that interchange; I only know this because I could not find parts so I looked them up at work (when I was a bike mechanic) If someone really needs some engine part let me know; I can go look for a parts interchange list that I made some time ago. Yamaha is famous reusing parts. You can actually bolt a 5valve head on an xt600 but you will have no water pump which you can bolt on too. Gotta love yammies.
c/o Bill Jurgenson: It is not primarily an overflow, it is the tank vent. No point in emptying the tank to inspect what you will not be able to see at all since the vent is an integral part of the platic of the tank. THE only problem the vent can have (and does) is not working at all because it is clogged. The female threaded fitting in the bottom of the tank is stainless, the screwed-in nipple aluminium and these two can react chemically (electrolysis) causeing the nipple to corrode so severly that it is only a lump of dirt. That has happened to one of my three and I have seen it elsewhere. The other two are fine, including the oldest one from 1994.
Don't fill to the brim - the handbook points this out, keep the fuel level with the bottom of the filler neck. Whatever fuel or condensation that gets into the concentric ring of the gas cap fixture will run down the vent hose which should be there and be quite long, routed down between motor and swingarm. Any liquid from outside (rain, washing...) will also collect in that ring.So, be sure to wipe out any liquid there and not to fill to the brim.
If you want to get rid of the problem once and for all and get a better vent as well, put the vent on top of the gas cap fixture and close off the internal vent with a screw. http://www.zabernet.de/bill/Graphiken/twowheels/2007_front.jpg This is the tank with the corroded nipple which caused hairpulling till we discovered it. The parts for the top vent are over-the-counter items for air-driven controlling units.
Putting tank foam (? better term in english?) into the gas tank is basically a sound idea and mandatory in "real" racing because it keeps the fuel from jostling around and thus changing the balance during curves in quick succession. I have it in the green tank shown above but not in the others.